Saturday, January 29, 2011

Makalu

Like Everest and Lhotse, the fifth highest mountain, Makalu lies in the Khumbu region of North-eastern
Nepal. It has two subsidiary peaks: Kangchungtse or Makalu II (7,678m) is north-northwest of the main summit while Chomo Lonzo, the other peak, lies north of it. On 15th May 1955, Lionel Terry and Jean Couzy, members of a French expedition led by Jean Franco reached the summit of Makalu. The following day, Franco, G. Magnone and SherpaGyaltsen Norbu also summitted. The North face and the north-east ridge via which they climbed became the standard route for the clumbers who came after them.
Over the following years, mountaineers climbed over the south-east ridge, the West Pillar route.
Makalu is considered one of the toughest mountains to climb. Although many sherpas climbed the mountain in the 1950s, they were Indian nationals and it was only on 1st may 1978, the Ang Chepal Sherpa became the first Nepali citizen to summit the peak.

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